day #87 - feeling festive

After a cheeky month-long hiatus, I'm reviving my blog. You can't really blame me, because nothing much worth documenting has actually happened. I've spent a couple of weekends doing things like wine and cheese tasting (very French), something called a 'Semaine des Zazimuts' which seemed to largely involve taking over the town hall and blasting music and handing out free condoms (also very French), and trying to wrap my head around the mere concept of midterm assessment, which is something evil and should immediately be burned out of public conscience. I also managed to head out to the Opéra, where we watched a Charlie Chaplin film (Les temps modernes, or Modern Times) which was accompanied by a proper orchestra. It was very cool.

But why should the blog crank back into action now? After all this time we've spent apart? The title is a little clue.
There's something in the air. It's the tinsel strung up in shop windows, it's the market taking over the square outside the Notre Dame, it's the mulled wine filling up my belly. It's Christmas.

a christmassy chocolate shop on the rue du gros horloge

 And I'm a total sucker for Christmas. It's not just the fact that Jesus was born - which, let me be clear, is pretty cool, and I've heard he did a lot of really good things with it - but it's the romance and the schmaltz that seems to appear the moment that the fairy lights switch on. There surely has to be a reason that the holiday season coincides with, to quote Doctor Who, the point at which we're "halfway out of the dark"? Just as the weather begins tumbling down to freezing point and the days start turning to night at two o'clock in the afternoon, we start switching on the Christmas lights and ice skating and buying each other presents and putting up trees. You get to give up on life for a week or two if you're lucky, and go home to your families and your loved ones. You get to sit on the sofa and drink slightly too much alcohol and eat slightly too much food and complain about how old we're all getting. I might be sentimental, but it really does make it the most wonderful time of the year.

the two-tiered carousel outside the cathedral

The only problem with Christmas in France seems to be that nobody seems to think it's Christmas in France yet. I know for a fact that the Edinburgh German market popped up around the 21st November, a full week before Rouen's Christmas offerings. And as for the Christmas decorations, then it's go hard or go home, my friends - some of my neighbours have bedazzled their houses to the points of eye-watering gaudiness. However, the village council has offered up this:

That, my friends, is the third and final Christmas light in my cosy little town. There are two others: A banner that says JOYEUSES FETES and a tree that they've strung some fairy lights across. It's a nice thought, I suppose. The other amusing thing is that as I got off the bus last night, having done a bit of shopping and run a few errands (and, of course, indulged in a glass of mulled wine at the market, duh), I saw a dude dressed as Santa Claus crossing the road right under that Christmas light. He had the beard on and everything.
A bit of Yuletide magic for you.

The Christmas market itself is quite sweet and deceptively expansive - it seems to stretch not only across from the Vieux Marché to the square in front of the Notre Dame, but there are also stalls sprawling all the way up to the town hall and I've even spotted the little wooden garden shed-type huts selling croustillons all the way down to the Seine. The vendors are very nice, and having them attempt to speak English while we try to convince them that actually yes, we speak French, is jolly good ERASMUS fun. The best bit about it, however, has to be the mulled wine - at €2 a cup (maybe €2,50 at a stretch), it's much more fun than the £5 mugs back in the UK. Heh, heh, heh. The British are such suckers.

couple of christmassy stalls outside the cathedral

Now I'm counting down the days until I can throw myself headfirst into the festive season. It's a little under two weeks before I head back to the UK, but before then I'm spending this weekend in Lyon for the Fête des Lumières with some buddies from Edinburgh who are also spending their ERASMUS years in France. I'm also attending a Christmassy pot-luck (a follow-on from a lovely Thanksgiving pot-luck spent with some of my anglophone friends), a birthday party, and there's still a visit to Paris on the cards for some Christmas markets and hopefully a few glasses of cheap wine before I go back to the country where I pay £7 a bottle. I'm also almost out of exam season now - only one presentation, one exam and one essay hand-in to go. Then I get to go home and start cramming for my January finals. Lucky me.

All in all, there's light at the end of this gross, cold, exam-filled tunnel, and I hope that you're enjoying the Christmassy countdown wherever you are. I will definitely be writing a little post about the Fête des Lumières, so watch out for that!

Joyeuses fêtes,
Josie
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